Luxury Goods

Luxury’s great divide will get more striking

17 Apr 2024

Sales at $420 bln LVMH rose a dull 3% in the first quarter. The Tiffany-to-Dior behemoth’s insipid performance points to a broader fragility within the sector. With revenue in the luxury industry flattening, the gap between winners and losers is set to grow wider.

Rabanne-owner IPO offers a scent of prestige

9 Apr 2024

Perfumes-to-skincare conglomerate Puig wants to list in Madrid. At a discount to beauty giants L’Oréal and Estée Lauder, the Spanish group may be worth $18 bln. European markets remain fragile, but premium fragrances’ rising appeal may turn the listing into a rare bright spot.

Beauty boom is busted

4 Apr 2024

Ulta Beauty’s stock plummeted 15% after the $21 bln makeup company’s CEO said lipstick-wearers had less money to put towards their routines. The industry’s M&A trend suggests the glam business can’t stay attractive forever – it has succumbed to a typical cycle like everyone else.

Profitability is next sacrifice at inflation altar

2 Apr 2024

Central bankers want LVMH, Pepsi and others to pay higher wages without raising prices. Bottom lines in the euro zone already have dipped to 40% of output, the lowest rate since 2020, and Big Tech accounts for most US margin growth. CEOs and investors can expect leaner times.

Hermès lawsuit attacks luxury’s FOMO premium

26 Mar 2024

A suit against the $274 bln fashion house claims it’s so hard to buy a Birkin, it’s illegal, alleging the handbag’s must-have aura lets the company force purchases of unwanted extras. If successful, it could crimp both Hermès’ top growth areas and ultra-luxe goods’ mystique.

Nordstrom take-private would strike a hard bargain

25 Mar 2024

The department store chain’s founding family is again mulling a buyout, Reuters reported. Sagging shares and weak results make it a target. Wringing out high enough returns to make a deal worthwhile requires both holding a stern line on price and dramatically reigniting growth.

Deeper Gucci woes test new CEO’s luxury touch

20 Mar 2024

Sales at Kering’s top brand are falling fast. An unproven designer, China weakness and a volatile client base are behind the group’s discount valuation. With M&A limiting hopes of buybacks, Gucci boss Jean-François Palus has a harder task convincing investors to stay the course.

Cosmetics IPO application calls for a steady hand

4 Mar 2024

Buyout firm CVC is braving uncertain markets to list retailer Douglas, possibly for 7 bln euros. Shoppers’ appetite for premium makeup despite inflation is a positive sign. Yet the group’s high leverage and competition from Sephora call for a valuation discount to US rival Ulta.

Europe shares’ granola rush will become thin gruel

26 Feb 2024

The STOXX 600 Index has hit a record, but local funds are seeing outflows. As in the US a small bunch of companies – the so-called GRANOLAS group – are behind the good news. But in the Old Continent they’re more dependent on weak economic growth rather than the AI revolution.

Hermès’ winning style is hard to replicate

9 Feb 2024

The French seller of $10,000 Birkin bags has outshined rivals, shrugging off inflation fears and a slowing China. Elite shoppers who see its high-end leather products as a store of value create resilience. Gucci-like brands, more exposed to fashion moods, look more fragile.

Capital Calls: Estée Lauder, European banks

5 Feb 2024

Concise views on global finance: The cosmetics giant behind Le Labo is cutting jobs and redoubling restructuring efforts, but the changes only go skin-deep; Santander and Lloyds are under pressure after a report they banked entities controlled by a US-sanctioned Iranian company.

Capital Calls: Ferrari closes gap with Hermes

1 Feb 2024

Concise views on global finance: The Italian carmaker’s valuation looks more like its luxury rival Hermes after its record results.

LVMH could use a bit more transparency

25 Jan 2024

The $375 bln luxury group had a decent 2023, but shares are flagging after a decade-long surge. Boss Bernard Arnault hasn’t had to fret about being in investors’ good books. One way to cheer them now is to make it possible to see how well key brands like Louis Vuitton are doing.

Capital Calls: Richemont revival

18 Jan 2024

Concise views on global finance: Shares in the $72 bln owner of Cartier rallied 9% after its quarterly results beat expectations, but concerns over the luxury sector persist.

Capital Calls: Pandora

8 Jan 2024

Concise views on global finance: Stronger than expected quarterly sales help the $12 bln Danish maker of affordable jewels beat its annual growth target.

‘Polluter pays’ doctrine will take on new meaning

3 Jan 2024

Carbon-intensive throwaway fashion and ubiquitous plastic waste are dirtying the globe. That may change as governments start to crack down on discarded textiles and polymer-based items. Companies and their investors face a costlier journey to a more sustainable world.

Kim Kardashian will be kicked off Instagram

22 Dec 2023

The influencer is worth $1.7 bln, which could climb with her shapewear brand’s IPO. That’s value that doesn’t flow to the owners of platforms sustaining content creators’ fame, like Elon Musk or Mark Zuckerberg. The best way for them to pull some back: suspend her privileges.

Capital Calls: Saks and Neiman Marcus

1 Dec 2023

Concise views on global finance: The two luxury retailers are once again contemplating a merger. Fickle consumers, even for high end items, make the marriage ideal.

Richemont digital strategy goes back to square one

29 Nov 2023

The Swiss group’s sale of its YNAP online platform is in doubt due to troubles at US-listed buyer Farfetch. Extracting itself from the deal, though potentially messy, looks the best option for the Cartier owner. Yet that still leaves Chairman Johann Rupert with an old problem.

Capital Calls: Gap earnings

17 Nov 2023

Concise views on global finance: Investors rewarded improvements at the apparel company's Old Navy brand by sending shares up over 30%. Yet overall third-quarter results remain muted. It’s a promising sign for new boss Richard Dickson, even if the bar was low to begin with.