Fashion

Capital Calls: HSBC and China, Dr. Martens

6 Jan 2021

Concise views on global finance: The Asia-focused lender has a chance to take greater control of its mainland brokerage after recent positive noises from Beijing; buyout firm Permira picks a good time to offload shares in the $5 bln bootmaker.

Capital Calls: McDonald’s makes ex-CEO pay

16 Dec 2021

Concise views on global finance: The fast-food chain settled its lawsuit with ousted boss Steve Easterbrook, recovering compensation now worth $105 million.

Nestlé’s $10 bln L’Oréal sale is a messy trim

8 Dec 2021

The food giant sold a 3% stake in the French cosmetics group, hanging onto 20%. It’s been a strong performer, but a full exit would make more sense for Nestlé’s shareholders. CEO Mark Schneider’s timidity may reflect a dearth of reasonably priced companies to spend the money on.

Inditex injects doubt into smooth-running machine

30 Nov 2021

Spain’s $100 bln fast fashion group replaced Executive Chairman Pablo Isla with founder Amancio Ortega’s daughter, Marta. Its valuation reflects investor faith in Isla’s digital strategy, which helped Inditex weather Covid-19. The abrupt pivot to untried leaders will test that.

Review: House of Gucci’s broken family capitalism

26 Nov 2021

A sprawling dynasty can lead to corporate disaster. Ridley Scott’s star-studded movie is a kaleidoscopic portrait of the infighting that saw the Gucci family lose control of their namesake brand. Stepping aside at the right time can make all the difference.

Prada’s new look merits fashion league promotion

18 Nov 2021

After years of drift, the $18 bln Italian brand has got a grip on its retail chain, axed discounts and rejuvenated its image. That should help it hit a 4.5 bln euro sales target and double its margins. For investors, the catch-up with snazzier rivals is something worth having.

Richemont beats orderly retreat from digital fight

12 Nov 2021

Under pressure from activists, the Cartier owner plans to spin off its loss-making online arm to rival Farfetch and others. If valued in line with peer Zalando it would be worth a respectable 4.7 bln euros. A sale should help Richemont close the valuation gap with luxury rivals.

Capital Calls: Tesla, Daimler

11 Nov 2021

Concise views on global finance: The electric-car maker’s directors have, like Elon Musk, cashed in; the German company is racing against Agnelli-controlled CNH Industrial to spin off a trucks division.

Richemont activism is more coaxing, less conflict

8 Nov 2021

Funds including Dan Loeb’s Third Point may push the Cartier owner to close a 20%-plus valuation discount to luxury peers. With half of the voting rights, Chairman Johann Rupert is in firm control. Unlocking value will depend on convincing him to make sensible strategic changes.

Rent the Runway models two clashing looks

26 Oct 2021

The clothing-rental company is pitching a way to lessen the load on its balance sheet as it plans to go public. It’s trying to share the risk of wear and tear of dresses and coats with designers. If it can be less Avis, more Airbnb, its $1.3 bln valuation could be a good fit.

Capital Calls: Spanx’s “velvet ghetto”

20 Oct 2021

Concise views on global finance: Blackstone’s investment in the undergarments company was closed by an all-woman team. That’s progress, but not the best kind.

Burberry’s new boss revives upmarket hopes

20 Oct 2021

The UK maker of chic trench coats poached Versace boss Jonathan Akeroyd to be its next CEO. He pushed up the Italian brand’s sales by focusing on high-margin products. Burberry is eager for a similar luxury glow. Yet the $10 bln group’s scale makes it a much bigger challenge.

Time to end Richemont’s online fashion drag

18 Oct 2021

The Cartier owner may sell its e-commerce business YNAP just three years after taking it over. A deal with Farfetch or other rivals might reap at most 3.6 bln euros. Yet, by cutting exposure to a lossmaking unit, boss Johann Rupert would smarten up his company’s dowdy valuation.

High fashion has golden shot at green revamp

12 Oct 2021

LVMH has recovered from Covid-19. With a record valuation and lavish cash flows, the $370 bln luxury giant can afford an overdue splurge on axing its carbon footprint. Setting the trend in an industry that accounts for 4% of emissions will also pile pressure on rivals.

Capital Calls: Green investors, ASOS, Renren

11 Oct 2021

Concise views on global finance: Al Gore’s asset manager finds listed equities can influence a larger chunk of global emissions; the online retailer parts company with its CEO; the startup investor’s $300 mln settlement with aggrieved investors is likely to be an exception.

Capital Calls: NatWest’s guilty-plea logic

7 Oct 2021

Concise views on global finance: The UK lender could receive a lower money-laundering fine for accepting culpability.

Dutch lingerie sale looks surprisingly chaste

24 Sep 2021

Sexy-underwear seller Hunkemoller is on the block after a post-pandemic rebound. Owner Carlyle’s digital push is helping it win market share. Yet investors seem more excited by trendy sportswear than saucy lingerie. Capping the price at 1 bln euros looks suitably modest.

Capital Calls: AMC, German pet retailer

8 Sep 2021

Concise views on global finance: The movie theater chain enjoyed bumper Labor Day attendance; a trio of private equity suitors are circling Zooplus.

Warby Parker proposes float sans Groucho glasses

26 Aug 2021

In an equity market full of disruptors claiming to change the world, the eyewear seller has a simple pitch: It provides specs more conveniently, for less. Growth is average, executive comp unoriginal, and listing direct to investors. At a $4 bln valuation, it’s easy on the eye.

Federer injects Swiss topspin into On sneaker IPO

24 Aug 2021

The trainer maker favored by The Rock and First Lady is bypassing Zurich for New York, with a mooted valuation of some $6 bln, a pack-leading 7 times sales. Athleisure wear is a crowded space, but On is growing fast. Like its marathoning clients, it’ll need endurance on its side.