Fashion

Capital Calls: Netflix, Thailand

20 Jul 2023

Concise views on global finance: The streaming giant warned its revenue will fall short of Wall Street’s expectations; a court’s move to suspend the leader of the election-winning Move Forward Party as a lawmaker raises the stakes in the underperforming $500 bln economy.

Thrift-store IPO dresses up old model in new style

21 Jun 2023

Secondhand retailer Savers Value Village is seeking a market value as high as $2.7 bln. Its pile of debt is a well-worn problem. At the same time, an ESG strand and Gen Z’s zeal for recycled goods give the 69-year-old business a fresh look.

Moncler can inspire Golden Goose’s next step

15 Jun 2023

Skirting a pandemic and war, the maker of Super-Star sneakers doubled sales to 500 mln euros in three years, with rich margins. That’s where Remo Ruffini’s down jackets brand stood before its 2013 IPO. It may tempt owner Permira into a $3 bln sale, or Moncler into a purchase.

Shein tries to thread US-China needle

5 Jun 2023

The $66 bln fast-fashion phenom is a formidable rival to Zara and H&M thanks to its data prowess and efficient Chinese supply chains – despite the trade war. Now geopolitics is forcing the company to rethink its identity right before it tries to list in the US.

Capital Calls: Amazon, Aramco

9 May 2023

Concise views on global finance: Rising costs and cautious consumers are driving the e-commerce giant to sell goods through mobile games and push incentives; the $2 trillion Saudi oil company’s new dividend policy is one way to interest investors in future share sales. 

Capital Calls: Crypto mysteries, HSBC

5 May 2023

Concise views on global finance: A court decision adds pressure on the US SEC to say which digital assets are securities, which would bring clarity to Coinbase and others; None of the $150 bln global bank’s big investors other than Ping An back an AGM breakup proposal.

Capital Calls: H&M, UK car goals

30 Mar 2023

Concise views on global finance: The $20 bln Swedish retailer’s investors seem to think the worst has passed; Britain has loosened its ambition to phase out combustion engine cars, but the big question is how many green vehicles will be made domestically.

Capital Calls: Apple arrives late to pay-later

29 Mar 2023

Concise views on global finance: The $2.5 trln iPhone maker is rolling out its U.S. “buy now, pay later” product into a much tougher, and riskier, market than when it first unveiled plans in June.

Kanye West blunder puts Adidas in play

15 Mar 2023

The $28 bln sportswear maker is battling to restore its image after ditching a lucrative but dubious alliance with the musician. That requires CEO Bjorn Gulden to splurge on marketing, hitting dividends and margins. Adidas’s depressed valuation may soon catch the eye of rivals.

Hermès’ “MetaBirkin” win misses the big picture

17 Feb 2023

A court ruled an artist’s digital version of the $198 bln group’s iconic Birkin bag violated trademark rights. The verdict gives luxury firms more clout to commercially exploit the metaverse. Yet the jury is still out on whether such forays will be anything more than marketing.

Capital Calls: TikTok’s Beltway visit

30 Jan 2023

Concise views on global finance: The social media app’s CEO Shou Zi Chew is going in front of a U.S. Congressional committee. But it’s leaders outside of Washington that Chew needs to convince.

LVMH has smarter way to tackle succession dilemma

11 Jan 2023

Bernard Arnault picked his daughter Delphine to run the luxury giant’s Dior brand. If she proves her mettle, she may win the race among her siblings to eventually replace the 73-year-old tycoon. Naming one heir would help LVMH extend its success to the next generation.

New CEO gives Prada more stylish look for listing

6 Dec 2022

Former Luxottica executive Andrea Guerra will replace founder Patrizio Bertelli at the $15 bln fashion house. It’s a breath of fresh air for the family-controlled firm. Putting an experienced outsider in charge may increase Prada’s appeal as it eyes a share sale in Milan.

Gucci designer’s exit boosts Kering’s M&A urgency

24 Nov 2022

Alessandro Michele’s departure from the bling group’s top label puts CEO François-Henri Pinault on the spot. Finding a new creative star will be hard, and he needs more brands to cut his $71 bln firm’s reliance on Gucci. A recent miss on Tom Ford also weakens his dealmaking hand.

Burberry revival rests on more leather power

17 Nov 2022

New CEO Jonathan Akeroyd wants to grow sales by 40% in coming years at the stagnating fashion house. Success hinges on star designer Daniel Lee’s ability to create alluring high-margin bags and shoes. But the move will take time and may hurt demand for items currently in store.

Estée Lauder plus Tom Ford is tricky defensive act

16 Nov 2022

The beauty giant will buy the fashion house for $2.8 bln. It allows the $81 bln group to cling on to the designer’s fast-growing fragrances, which it licenses. But outsourcing the eyewear and clothes units risks being a distraction, especially if Ford himself leaves after a year.

Capital Calls: Disney’s Netflix problem

8 Nov 2022

Concise views on global finance: The Magic Kingdom’s shares tanked on Tuesday after it reported widening losses in its streaming service division, but it can overcome the challenges.

Tom Ford return offers remedy for Gucci fatigue

4 Nov 2022

Kering is considering a swoop on the U.S. fashion house. Bringing back Gucci’s ex-star designer could ease the $60 bln fashion giant’s reliance on its largest brand, which needs reinvigorating. Kering’s vast retail network would also make the Tom Ford label a winner.

Adidas’s Kanye West bet is still in credit

27 Oct 2022

The 18 bln euro sportswear maker severed ties with the musician over offensive comments. In this Viewsroom podcast, Breakingviews columnists discuss how the financial benefits to Adidas nevertheless outweighed the costs. That may spur other brands to pursue outspoken stars.

Capital Calls: Mobileye IPO, Loafer buyout

26 Oct 2022

Concise views on global finance: Intel’s autonomous driving subsidiary benefited from lower expectations, while Tod’s founder Diego Della Valle may have a Plan B after resistance from minority investors forced him to abandon plans to take the luxury shoemaker private.