Clothing

ESG is ghost at global retailers’ annual feast

19 Apr 2024

LVMH, Amazon and peers gathered in Paris for the industry’s yearly shindig. The growth areas in the $30 trln sector are Shein-style cheap garments and the Middle East. Both jar with retailers’ previous focus on environmental, social and governance factors.

Luxury’s great divide will get more striking

17 Apr 2024

Sales at $420 bln LVMH rose a dull 3% in the first quarter. The Tiffany-to-Dior behemoth’s insipid performance points to a broader fragility within the sector. With revenue in the luxury industry flattening, the gap between winners and losers is set to grow wider.

A Dr Martens sale may cause multiple blisters

4 Apr 2024

An investor thinks the struggling $1 bln UK bootmaker could sell itself. Low valuations may woo buyers, but a bid is unlikely to make up for a 75% share slide since the group’s IPO. A rushed exit may also dampen top investor Permira’s effort to list sneaker brand Golden Goose.

Deeper Gucci woes test new CEO’s luxury touch

20 Mar 2024

Sales at Kering’s top brand are falling fast. An unproven designer, China weakness and a volatile client base are behind the group’s discount valuation. With M&A limiting hopes of buybacks, Gucci boss Jean-François Palus has a harder task convincing investors to stay the course.

Adidas catch-up remains off the necessary pace

13 Mar 2024

The $37 bln sneaker maker is emerging from its Yeezy trainer crisis. CEO Bjorn Gulden’s focus on fashionable trainers is helping to grow sales. But given the ropey economic outlook, which is hitting rival Nike, investors don’t yet look convinced he can deliver on his ambitions.

Capital Calls: Estée Lauder, European banks

5 Feb 2024

Concise views on global finance: The cosmetics giant behind Le Labo is cutting jobs and redoubling restructuring efforts, but the changes only go skin-deep; Santander and Lloyds are under pressure after a report they banked entities controlled by a US-sanctioned Iranian company.

Basketball-maker will bounce back from IPO brick

1 Feb 2024

Amer Sports sold shares at $13 apiece, below its $16 to $18 range, valuing the owner of the Wilson, Salomon and Arc’teryx brands at just $6 billion. The steep discount to Lululemon, Nike and On partly stems from overblown fears about China. Buying now should be a slam dunk.

Capital Calls: Paramount takeover bid

31 Jan 2024

Concise views on global finance: Media mogul Byron Allen, whose company owns The Weather Channel, is offering to buy the TV and film conglomerate for $30 bln. Even if he doesn’t become the next owner, his presence should help get a sale process moving and plump up the price tag.

LVMH could use a bit more transparency

25 Jan 2024

The $375 bln luxury group had a decent 2023, but shares are flagging after a decade-long surge. Boss Bernard Arnault hasn’t had to fret about being in investors’ good books. One way to cheer them now is to make it possible to see how well key brands like Louis Vuitton are doing.

Shein’s China and ESG risk puts IPO on iffy ground

25 Jan 2024

The fast-fashion giant is preparing a New York stock market listing. In this Viewsroom podcast, Breakingviews columnists explain how US investors might be wary of links to Beijing, and how its hard-to-recycle $5 tops and sweaters could be vulnerable to future regulation.

Shein’s waste factor is its ultimate IPO risk

19 Jan 2024

The China-linked retailer’s lean production model helps it keep inventory low. Yet its polyester garments are carbon-intensive and hard to recycle. Regulators’ growing unease about textile pollution, and the cost of addressing the mess, may require giving up clients or margins.

Sporting goods IPO plays winning China game

18 Jan 2024

Amer is growing fast in the home market of Fujian-based Anta, which co-bought the maker of Arc’teryx parkas and Salomon skis in 2019. Using Nike, Lululemon and On as guides imputes a $15 bln valuation. But chunky debt and the Wilson tennis brand weaken its competitive edge.

Athleisure boom offers edge to premium retailers

18 Jan 2024

Wealthy shoppers are splurging on pricey leggings and sneakers despite inflationary pressure. That helps premium brands like $59 bln Lululemon and On while Nike and others deal with inventory pile-ups. If the big players can’t catch up, valuation gaps will only get wider.

Burberry’s weakness could entice luxury shopper

12 Jan 2024

After a profit warning, the $6 bln UK fashion group is worth 45% less than it was a year ago. Potential buyers will have noticed. While private equity firms may struggle to make decent returns in a slow market, sector leader LVMH could find the situation more tempting.

Temu hurts Amazon more than it helps

4 Jan 2024

The $1.5 trln e-commerce giant is defending itself against FTC Chair Lina Khan. The Chinese retailer and rival Shein’s quick seizure of market share could keep her happy. Less thrilled will be Amazon’s own shareholders, who have added some $660 bln to its market cap in a year.

Kim Kardashian will be kicked off Instagram

22 Dec 2023

The influencer is worth $1.7 bln, which could climb with her shapewear brand’s IPO. That’s value that doesn’t flow to the owners of platforms sustaining content creators’ fame, like Elon Musk or Mark Zuckerberg. The best way for them to pull some back: suspend her privileges.

Macy’s best option now is profitable oblivion

11 Dec 2023

An investor group has offered to take the US retailer private for $5.8 bln, following past proposals to fix the struggling department store chain by Starboard and Jana. Going private could have logic, if Macy’s properties can be sold. The chain should grab value when it can.

Capital Calls: Gap earnings

17 Nov 2023

Concise views on global finance: Investors rewarded improvements at the apparel company's Old Navy brand by sending shares up over 30%. Yet overall third-quarter results remain muted. It’s a promising sign for new boss Richard Dickson, even if the bar was low to begin with.

Capital Calls: Walmart, HelloFresh

16 Nov 2023

Concise views on global finance: Although the US retailer lost nearly 8% of its market value after it indicated that price increases are starting to ease, it should be able to navigate the challenge; the 2.7 billion euro meal-delivery company has become a tasty buyout target.

Capital Calls: Regulating crypto

7 Nov 2023

Concise views on global finance: The US Securities and Exchange Commission is struggling to hire digital token experts, partly because prospective recruits aren’t willing to acquiesce to the agency’s requirement that they sell their holdings in bitcoin and beyond.