Clothing

Meta stake may blur vision for Ray-Ban maker

18 Jul 2024

The $1.2 trln tech giant may buy 5% of eyewear group EssilorLuxottica. It’s a show of confidence in the companies’ smart glasses partnership. But the investment could complicate the Paris-listed firm’s governance and limit its options for working with rivals like Apple.

Burberry faces a lengthy stay in the bargain bin

15 Jul 2024

Shares in the $3.4 bln UK fashion group fell 17% after it replaced its CEO and suspended its dividend. New boss Joshua Schulman’s plan to refocus on trench coats isn’t certain to work. But Burberry fare’s waning appeal also limits the scope for a deep-pocketed acquirer like LVMH.

Underdogs force Nike into game of defense

28 Jun 2024

The Converse owner's shares fell sharply after it warned on weaker sales. Rival upstarts have been giving Nike a run for its money, and the company is backpedaling on its direct-to-consumer push and doubling down on product innovation. Trouble is, it's starting on the back foot.

Wanted: A buffed-up board to put a sheen on Shein

28 Jun 2024

The $63 bln fast-fashion giant needs to find a chairman and board directors ahead of a London IPO. Providing comfort to fund managers jittery about Shein’s supply chain and cheap clothes will be tough. Breakingviews imagines how a headhunter might approach potential candidates.

Permira has many motives to kill its Golden Goose

19 Jun 2024

The sneaker brand blamed Europe’s political uncertainty for pausing its $1.9 bln listing. Yet a sluggish luxury market and slower growth had already forced it to scale back its price ambitions. For the private equity shop, avoiding a repeat of Dr. Martens’ IPO flop is paramount.

Golden Goose IPO to test its Super-Star status

11 Jun 2024

The maker of pricey sneakers liked by Taylor Swift will list in Milan. But sales are slowing and keeping a 34% profit margin while investing in growth is hard. As a luxury boom flags, a relatively discounted IPO value of 2 bln euros including debt is appropriately conservative.

Inditex’s golden era is coming to an end

3 May 2024

Asian disruptor Shein is threatening the $142 bln Zara owner’s fast-fashion crown with ultra-cheap wares. Dismissing the risk may threaten its market share. To protect the Spanish giant’s business, CEO Óscar García Maceiras has plenty of cash but no obvious M&A solution.

Global retailers are headed for Shein reckoning

30 Apr 2024

Zara owner Inditex, H&M and other apparel giants are holding ground against the Asian fast-fashion upstart. However, AlixPartners’ retail expert Matt Clark argues in this Exchange podcast that Shein’s focus on garment quality could threaten the dominance of pricier rivals.

Time for Kering’s king to consider a step back

24 Apr 2024

François-Henri Pinault, heir to the family fortune, has been at the helm of the 40 bln euro French luxury conglomerate for nearly 20 years. With returns shrinking and as flagship brand Gucci struggles, Kering may benefit from fresh blood – and possibly a new CEO.

ESG is ghost at global retailers’ annual feast

19 Apr 2024

LVMH, Amazon and peers gathered in Paris for the industry’s yearly shindig. The growth areas in the $30 trln sector are Shein-style cheap garments and the Middle East. Both jar with retailers’ previous focus on environmental, social and governance factors.

Luxury’s great divide will get more striking

17 Apr 2024

Sales at $420 bln LVMH rose a dull 3% in the first quarter. The Tiffany-to-Dior behemoth’s insipid performance points to a broader fragility within the sector. With revenue in the luxury industry flattening, the gap between winners and losers is set to grow wider.

A Dr Martens sale may cause multiple blisters

4 Apr 2024

An investor thinks the struggling $1 bln UK bootmaker could sell itself. Low valuations may woo buyers, but a bid is unlikely to make up for a 75% share slide since the group’s IPO. A rushed exit may also dampen top investor Permira’s effort to list sneaker brand Golden Goose.

Deeper Gucci woes test new CEO’s luxury touch

20 Mar 2024

Sales at Kering’s top brand are falling fast. An unproven designer, China weakness and a volatile client base are behind the group’s discount valuation. With M&A limiting hopes of buybacks, Gucci boss Jean-François Palus has a harder task convincing investors to stay the course.

Adidas catch-up remains off the necessary pace

13 Mar 2024

The $37 bln sneaker maker is emerging from its Yeezy trainer crisis. CEO Bjorn Gulden’s focus on fashionable trainers is helping to grow sales. But given the ropey economic outlook, which is hitting rival Nike, investors don’t yet look convinced he can deliver on his ambitions.

Capital Calls: Estée Lauder, European banks

5 Feb 2024

Concise views on global finance: The cosmetics giant behind Le Labo is cutting jobs and redoubling restructuring efforts, but the changes only go skin-deep; Santander and Lloyds are under pressure after a report they banked entities controlled by a US-sanctioned Iranian company.

Basketball-maker will bounce back from IPO brick

1 Feb 2024

Amer Sports sold shares at $13 apiece, below its $16 to $18 range, valuing the owner of the Wilson, Salomon and Arc’teryx brands at just $6 billion. The steep discount to Lululemon, Nike and On partly stems from overblown fears about China. Buying now should be a slam dunk.

Capital Calls: Paramount takeover bid

31 Jan 2024

Concise views on global finance: Media mogul Byron Allen, whose company owns The Weather Channel, is offering to buy the TV and film conglomerate for $30 bln. Even if he doesn’t become the next owner, his presence should help get a sale process moving and plump up the price tag.

LVMH could use a bit more transparency

25 Jan 2024

The $375 bln luxury group had a decent 2023, but shares are flagging after a decade-long surge. Boss Bernard Arnault hasn’t had to fret about being in investors’ good books. One way to cheer them now is to make it possible to see how well key brands like Louis Vuitton are doing.

Shein’s China and ESG risk puts IPO on iffy ground

25 Jan 2024

The fast-fashion giant is preparing a New York stock market listing. In this Viewsroom podcast, Breakingviews columnists explain how US investors might be wary of links to Beijing, and how its hard-to-recycle $5 tops and sweaters could be vulnerable to future regulation.

Shein’s waste factor is its ultimate IPO risk

19 Jan 2024

The China-linked retailer’s lean production model helps it keep inventory low. Yet its polyester garments are carbon-intensive and hard to recycle. Regulators’ growing unease about textile pollution, and the cost of addressing the mess, may require giving up clients or margins.